Sectioning and Placement for Hair Extensions

Preparing the Hair

  • Shampoo the client’s hair twice with a Clarifying shampoo. 
  • Do not use conditioner on the scalp area. Focus on the ends of the hair.
  • Dry the hair thoroughly.
  • Wash the silicone pads, clips, and combs with clarifying shampoo.
  •  Wash your hands, and do not use hand creams or lotions.
  • I like to use the Sassoon method of sectioning a bob
  • All of the diagrams are here to help you get started.
  • The most important thing to remember is to take clean sections, and if there are a lot of stray hairs, use a light-hold hairspray to hold them down.

Pre-Hair Cut

After Shampooing, shape your client’s hair using a Razor or Slide Cutting with scissors. 

DO NOT BLUNT CUT. It is easier to blend the extensions with your client’s hair using a Razor.

To begin placement, you will first determine what you are trying to achieve.

 

  • You can create highlights,
  • Lowlights,
  • Repair an incorrect haircut or hair color 
  • Add volume or length using one or both extension row patterns
  • (solid or scattered). The most important thing to remember is that you take clean sections.
  •  Do not apply bonds closer than 1” from the hairline. 
  • When in doubt, section the hair the same way you would  if you were cutting it
  • Scattered rows integrate the client’s natural hair into the extension hair, adding highlights and volume. 
  • Solid rows are spaced evenly and more closely together than scattered rows, creating length and bulk in the hair.

An important thing to remember is that you have a pattern to the placement and balance to the head. Do not apply bonds closer than 1″ from the hairline.

 

Sectioning and Placement for Hair Extensions
back of head length

Length

  • One scattered row below the crown working around the head
  • One solid or scattered row in the temple area working around the head
  • Three solid rows starting below the Occipital Bone
right side volume
right side length

Volume

  • One scattered row around the head just below the temple area
  • One solid or scattered row above the ear around the head shape
right side highlights
back of head highlights

Highlights / Volume

  • The first row is scattered around the head above the ear
  • The second row is scattered around the head inch above the previous row
  • The third row is scattered around the head at the Temple area